Welcome to the "Delice of the Month"!
Every month, explore the history and details of an exceptional timepiece. Available for purchase on our website.
EDITION N°1, MAY 2025
For this edition, discover the captivating elegance of the Universal Genève Polerouter, a model that perfectly blends horological heritage and technical innovation.
The Genesis of an Icon
The Polerouter was created in 1954 by Universal Genève to celebrate a historic aviation achievement: the trans-Arctic flight by Scandinavian Airlines (SAS), linking Europe to the west coast of the United States by flying over the North Pole.
At the time, aircraft flying over the Arctic were subject to intense magnetic disturbances. Universal Genève responded by developing an anti-magnetic watch, designed to accompany the pioneering pilots on these groundbreaking routes.
Initially named the Polarouter and equipped with a bumper movement, it later evolved into the Polerouter, and was eventually fitted with the Caliber 215, featuring microrotor technology, an ultra-thin automatic movement that allowed for a slimmer case.
Keen-eyed collectors may notice that the lugs closely resemble those of the Speedmaster, both produced by HF Huguenin Frères, a renowned case manufacturer.
The Polerouter came in a wide range of versions, from steel to solid gold. Even today, it’s hard to determine exactly how many variants were created.
For more in-depth information, I highly recommend visiting:
👉 https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/ — the ultimate reference for Polerouter collectors, curated by @Hamblar.
The Polerouter is often listed among the best entry-level vintage watches for new collectors, thanks to its design by Gérald Genta (his first major watch design), and the technical brilliance of its movement.
Today, black dial steel models are the most sought-after.
A Promising Future
With Universal Genève acquired by Breitling in 2024, and new models announced, it seems highly likely that a modernized Polerouter will be released in the near future.
One exciting development: a white gold version with a SAS dial is being auctioned this month, and is expected to set the tone for future releases.
👉 Read the official article
I sincerely hope the brand delves into its rich archives to bring this iconic model back to life and restore it to the place it truly deserves.
The Polerouter & Watch & Delice
The very first watch I ever sold was a Polerouter reference 204605, featuring a stunning 12-sided golden dial. I sold it to a Spanish collector, and it was this piece that sparked my passion for collecting and reselling unique timepieces.
Universal Genève holds a special place for me, a brand with a unique heritage, outstanding craftsmanship, and timeless design.
If you liked this story, you can check our own Polerouter for sale on our website (perhaps one of the cheapest black dial available online!):
👉 Watch & Delice - UG Polerouter
✍️ Written on May 1st, 2025 by Hugo, Founder of Watch & Delice